How Heat Styling Tools Can Damage Your Hair
Using heat styling tools like straightening irons and curling tongs can give you the perfect sleek look or voluminous curls, but they can also cause long-term damage if not used correctly. Understanding the science behind this damage can help you make better styling choices at home to help keep your hair strong and healthy.
The Science Behind Heat Damage
Let's jump into the deep end and explain some of the science that goes on within your hair. This is the stuf that your stylist knows but may not have explained to you in detail.
1. Hair Structure & Composition
Human hair is primarily composed of keratin, a fibrous protein rich in disulfide bonds (covalent bonds between sulfur atoms in cysteine amino acids). These bonds, along with hydrogen bonds and salt bonds, help maintain the shape and strength of the hair.
- Hydrogen Bonds: Weaken when hair is wet and reform when it dries (basis of temporary styling).
- Disulfide Bonds: Strong chemical bonds that determine the hair’s natural shape (wavy, curly, or straight). Excessive heat can break these bonds permanently.
- Cuticle Layer: The outermost protective layer of the hair, made of overlapping scales. When damaged, the hair becomes frizzy, rough, and more prone to breakage. Cuticle damage is easy to see as the hair lacks any shine.
2. How Heat Causes Hair Damage
- Breaks Hydrogen Bonds (Temporary Change) – Heat temporarily weakens hydrogen bonds, allowing hair to be reshaped (straightened or curled). Frequent use weakens hair structure over time.
- Breaks Disulfide Bonds (Permanent Damage) – High temperatures (above 180°C) can permanently break disulfide bonds, leading to weak and brittle strands.
- Damages the Cuticle Layer – High heat lifts the protective cuticle layer, exposing the inner cortex and leading to increased porosity, frizz, and split ends.
- Moisture Loss & Bubble Hair Effect – When heat is applied too quickly on damp hair, water inside the shaft turns to steam, creating tiny bubbles inside the hair fibre, making it fragile and prone to breakage. You can hear the bubble effect when it happens and you can also be burnt by the resulting steam.
- Oxidation & Colour Fading – High temperatures degrade natural melanin and lipids in the hair, causing colour-treated hair to fade faster and appear dull. In some cases, very delicate colours such as 'brights or 'toners' can be visibly erased before your eyes with excessive heat styling!
Heat-Safe Styling: How to Minimise Damage
1. Always, always, always use a Heat Protectant
Heat protectants form a thin barrier around your hair, reducing moisture loss and preventing direct heat damage. We recommend using:
- REF Heat Protection Spray – Lightweight and non-greasy, perfect for everyday use.
- Innoluxe Elixir V3 – Strengthens disulfide bonds while providing thermal protection.
How to Use:
- Apply to dry or damp hair before styling.
- Comb through for even distribution.
- Blow dry completely and then use your preferred hot tool to finish the styling.
2. Use the Right Temperature
- Fine/Damaged Hair: 120°C–150°C
- Normal Hair: 150°C–180°C
- Thick/Coarse Hair: 180°C–200°C
Never exceed 200°C as this can cause irreversible keratin damage.
3. Ensure Hair is Completely Dry Before Styling
Using a straightener or curling tong on wet hair can lead to severe bubble hair damage. Always use a hairdryer first, preferably with a low to medium heat setting.
4. Choose High-Quality Styling Tools
Using tools with ceramic or tourmaline plates can help distribute heat more evenly, reducing the risk of hot spots.
Recommended Tools:
- Straightener: GHD Platinum+ Styler – Ensures even heating.
- Curler: Dyson 'Airwrap' – Uses low heat, preventing excessive damage.
5. Limit Heat Styling Frequency
- Heat styling should be limited to 2-3 times per week to allow hair recovery time.
- Try heatless styling techniques like braiding damp hair for waves or using foam rollers for curls.
6. Strengthen Hair with Treatments
Using protein and moisture-rich treatments can help repair heat damage and reinforce keratin structure. Both INNOluxe and REF have an extensive range of options to choose from.
Best Treatments for Heat-Damaged Hair:
- REF Ultimate Repair Masque – Provides deep moisture to repair for your hair.
- Innoluxe Elixir V3 – Strengthens disulfide bonds, preventing breakage.
Leave-In Conditioners:
- REF Leave-In Treatment – Lightweight, ideal for fine to normal hair.
- Innoluxe Platinum – Designed for colour-treated or severely damaged hair.
7. Lock in Moisture and Shine
Applying lightweight oils after styling helps maintain shine and protect against environmental damage.
Recommended Oils:
- REF Shine Elixir – Provides UV and heat protection with a glossy finish.
- REF Leave In Serum – Strengthens and seals the cuticle.
Best Heat-Safe Products Based on Your Hair Type
1. Fine or Thin Hair
🔹 Concerns: Prone to heat damage, lacks volume, gets weighed down easily.
✅ Best Products:
- Heat Protectant: REF Heat Protection Spray
- Leave-In Conditioner: REF Leave-In Treatment
- Strengthening Treatment: Innoluxe Elixir V3
2. Thick or Coarse Hair
🔹 Concerns: Takes longer to style, needs high heat but is prone to dryness.
✅ Best Products:
- Heat Protectant: Innoluxe Elixir V3
- Leave-In Conditioner: REF Intense Hydrate Masque
- Styling Tool: Dyson Corrale Straightener (Handles thick hair well)
3. Curly or Wavy Hair
🔹 Concerns: Frizz, dehydration, heat causing curl pattern loss.
✅ Best Products:
- Heat Protectant: REF Heat Protection Spray
- Leave-In Conditioner: Innoluxe Platinum
- Curl Styling Tool: GHD Curve Classic Curl
4. Colour-Treated or Damaged Hair
🔹 Concerns: Prone to breakage, fading, and extreme dryness.
✅ Best Products:
- Heat Protectant: Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate
- Leave-In Conditioner: Innoluxe Platinum
- Repair Mask: REF Ultimate Repair Mask
Final Thoughts
Heat styling doesn’t have to mean damaging your hair. By using heat protectants like REF Heat Protection Spray or Innoluxe Elixir V3, choosing the right temperature, and limiting frequency, you can maintain healthy, shiny, and resilient hair. Incorporate deep conditioning and strengthening treatments into your routine to keep your hair strong and vibrant.
Would you like personalised product recommendations based on your hair type? Let us know!
